tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21576459016691813652024-02-18T22:22:28.517-08:00VehiCrossExplore the Isuzu VehiCROSS with me as I fix problems, come up with "how to" ideas and do performance and appearance modifications. This blog is in conjuction with my VX homage site on wildtoys.comJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.comBlogger17125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-14971498229316627502013-04-02T19:30:00.000-07:002013-04-02T19:30:22.047-07:00Swapping a Rotted RadiatorA couple of weeks ago on a Saturday morning I was doing my usual fluid top-up when I noticed a small crack across the top of the stock radiator. This is the radiator that originally came with my truck way back in 2001 manufactured by Harrison for GM. The crack was about three inches long and had some signs of oozing, even though I hadn't yet smelled any coolant - I knew it was a matter of time.<br />
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I started calling around and found an after-market radiator for about $300 - this one was in stock so I got to look at it and basically passed as it was cheaply made. I toyed with the idea of getting one of those fabulous all-aluminum radiators custom-made by Ron Davis but wasn't ready to spend the $600 or so plus shipping. Looking around on the VX.info forum I found a post for a $67 radiator from an eBay seller with free shipping - from the photos it looked the same as the one I found locally (even the numbers looked the same - the only difference I found was the distributor name, the eBay was from "Sunbelt Radiators"). I decided to bite the bullet and try out this cheap thing, figuring that if it didn't work I could always get the Ron Davis upgrade. Surprisingly, the radiator was waiting for me on the front stoop 2 days after I ordered.<br />
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Overall the radiator was well packaged and came in good condition. The plastic at top and bottom appeared to be a little lighter than the Harrison but wasn't flimsy. The whole unit when compared to the original is a bit lighter but that may just be residual liquid adding weight to the old. One identifier is the way the return tube bends down more on the aftermarket (more photos with a side-by-side later). A couple of other things - the after-market is exactly the same size and thickness, however the bottom slots for the fan shroud are shaped differently (they're wider, presumably to be more generic). Also, the stay for the overflow tube at the top is in a slightly different position and the slots for the shroud nuts at the top aren't as tight (the nuts will fall through). I wanted to make sure that this radiator would work before peeling everything apart so I spent some time doing additional research online and after a few weekends felt fairly confident that I could make it work.<br />
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Next, I decided to peel apart the front - this was also to solve an issue I was having with one of my aftermarket fog lights, but also to make it easier to take off the front skid plate (it allows for more room when removed and a bit less mess as the draining radiator doesn't empty into it).<br />
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I also spotted a couple of bolts that had backed themselves out - this was on the center bumper support (actually right behind it) and figured they were responsible for one of the rattles I sometimes hear, so I removed the support and tightened the bolts.<br />
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There was one other issue I wanted to address while I had everything apart - those red silicon radiator hoses I installed back when I did the timing belt had an issue - the bottom of the passenger side hose would occasionally swell and flex with heat and rub against the alternator pulley - I wanted to inspect and possibly replace the hose so I had a back-up on hand. Here are some photos of the damage I could see.<br />
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You can see from above that my temporary solution was to zip-tie the hose to the top of the radiator so it wouldn't flex and rub (real bogus engineering there folks).<br />
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When you disconnect the tranny cooler lines plug the ends with those squishy, disposable ear plugs - they'll save you from a lot of mess. Here's the original radiator...<br />
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Make sure you keep the two bottom bumpers when you lift the old radiator out - the provide a much needed padding to prevent the radiator from bottoming out on the front frame support. Also, you'll need the radiator cap and the two transmission flexible lines (you can see the earplugs in the ends in the photo above). You'll also need to carefully scrape off the two rubber moldings from the sides and reapply them to the new radiator (they prevent the sides from rubbing in the metal frame). Here's a comparison of the two side-by-side:<br />
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After examining the rubbed hose I determined that there wasn't any softness - the pulley appears to have only worn through 2-4 layers and there was still plenty of silicon in the hose wall.<br />
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I decided to re-use what I had - I've been trying to get a replacement but haven't met with any success, even when offering to pay for the hose. The other problem was the culprit of the hose running - I determined that the hose was a bit over an inch too long.<br />
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I carefully marked the excess and cut off with a razor knife...in retrospect I wish I had done this comparison when I did my timing belt - live and learn I guess.<br />
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When trying to pry out one of the retaining nuts for the fan shroud at the top a whole chunk of radiator broke off. This stuff is extremely brittle - looks like recycled plastic to me and deserves more of an inspection (recommend you do occasionally if you still have the original).<br />
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After reapplying the side rubber moldings I placed the new radiator in its new home. I used some double-stick tape I got at Harbor Freight, the 3/4 inch wide stuff, placing it on one side then razor-ing off half which can be applied to the other side. This stuff works pretty well.<br />
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The top bracket was a little "loosie-goosie" so I put a thin piece of foam padding under between it and the rubber pad. One trick to getting the nut on those bolts is pull the shroud away from the radiator, insert a nut with your finger under the bracket (so it doesn't fall through), thread the bolt loosely then flex the shroud under the loose nut on both sides. Then tighten as usual.<br />
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The two halves of the fan shroud were also loose so I added a self-tap screw on each side to maintain it's shape. I'll replace these with stainless screws at some point but these will work for now.<br />
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This is what it looked like with the hose shortened and installed...much improved from the previous install. <br />
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After putting the motor and all the lines back together I fired her up and waited for leaks - it didn't take long to spot leaks coming from both tranny cooling lines. At this point it started to get dark (that was Saturday March 30) so I called it a day. In the morning I inspected the leaking areas - seems the diameter of the tubing is slightly smaller than the hoses - also, the plastic overflow tube was loose, so I added some 3/8 inch diameter hose clamps....<br />
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I continued pouring in coolant and massaging the top hose until all the air was out of it and basically waited for the coolant to expand, all the while looking for leaks. It all looked good. I killed the engine, checked everything again and then shot this video.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/lefl3rO3ejU?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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Afterward it was a matter of re-filling the transmission with fluid (quite a messy job), securing the hose with an extra thick zip tie (need to order the proper hose retaining clip) and completing the assembly of the front - I did manage to find the short in my fog lamp and fixed it too. The whole job took about 6 hours on Saturday and another 6 hours on Sunday, so it may have been worth having it done instead of doing it yourself. I guess it depends on whether you like doing this stuff or not.<br />
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-- John<br />
John Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-56024262521736261332012-04-22T17:40:00.000-07:002012-04-22T17:40:02.732-07:00About Time for a Timing BeltI replaced my first timing belt at around 70K miles. I just edged over 150 and figured it was about time for my second. In preparation I decided to try one of the inexpensive kits offered by several dealers on eBay. In my case, the kit was "on sale" for around $130. The kit included the water pump, tensioner pulley assembly, idler pulley and a good aftermarket belt. All the parts were Japanese or Korean. Doing some research I decided to use the excellent instructions available from VX owner Bart on the vx.info forums: nfpgasmask here: <a href="http://isuzugeek.org/howtos/tbelt/tbelt.htm" target="_blank">http://isuzugeek.org/howtos/tbelt/tbelt.htm</a>. He made some additional recommendations so I purchased a new tensioner and a new water pump stud (got those from Merlin at St. Charles Auto: 1-800-727-8066). Since the serpentine belt I had on it looked decent, I deferred on that (it's easy to change anyway).<br />
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I had also decided that while I was in there I may as well upgrade the radiator hoses to silicon - I purchased these from SVX Motorsport ($140 Plus shipping: <a href="http://svx-motorsport-accessories.stores.yahoo.net/pusiraho2.html">http://svx-motorsport-accessories.stores.yahoo.net/pusiraho2.html</a> ). I also purchases some excellent Stainless Steel Constant torque hose clamps from a dealer on Amazon: <a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002QTK1C/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_3p_dp_1">http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002QTK1C/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_3p_dp_1</a>)<br />
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I decided to take a couple of days off from work - had a week left over from last year plus I wanted to be able to access any parts stores if I ran into an issue - since most are closed on the weekend it's just easier when things go South. I put together my tool kit and parts and headed outside about 10:00 AM. Here's a couple shots of the VX before I started.<br />
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Here are the parts from the eBay kit:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Japanese-made idler pulley</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Korean-made tensioner assembly</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not sure where it's made, probably Taiwan</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brazilian-made water pump</td></tr>
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Some general impressions - the pulleys both seemed to be of good quality - time will tell. The belt also seemed very well made as did the water pump. It did have cast fins instead of the bent-steel of the original - also the gasket was paper instead of the original metal. I figure that if something goes wrong I'll just take it apart and use real OEM - I'll only be out the $150 and since the VX has a non-interference engine there isn't too much risk of damage.<br />
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Here are the OEM parts I used:<br />
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And here are a couple of extras (the thread-lock is needed for one of the bolts in the water pump):<br />
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New pure silicon hoses and clamps:<br />
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Tools, consumables and the drip pan:<br />
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These are the dissembly photos:<br />
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<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt19.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sans Serpentine belt</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
So here is when things got interesting:<br />
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<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt20.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt20.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />
When you pull off the old timing belt, the cam pulleys are supposed to move inward to the 12 o'clock position (according to Bart's excellent guide) - instead mine went to the outsides:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt18.25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt18.25.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right Cam Pulley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt18.75.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt18.75.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left Cam Pulley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I continued with the dissembly:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt21.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New water pump, stud and idler pulley on the top and right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt22.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tensioner Pully Assembly on the left</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So now the first problem. Take a close look at the tensioner pulley assembly on the left. That's actually the original assembly with a transposed pulley. When I compared the original to the replacement it was quite evident that the offset (distance from the front of the motor to the inside edge of the pulley) was incorrect. There's a difference of about 4 or 5 millimeters - no way the belt would have tracked right using the replacement. I ended up taking both to the bench and using a vise to hold things down, removed the pulley - luckily the inside shaft had the same diameter so I went with the new pulley instead of replacing the old.<br />
<br />
So at this point I called it a night and posted a question about the cam pulley placement on the vx.info forum. I also took another look at the videos available there regarding the timing belt. Some helpful guys chimed in and I decided to go for it, cranking the cam pulleys inward instead of outward. The opinions were that it shouldn't matter as long as everything lined up.<br />
<br />
The next morning I took a look at the belt and came to problem number two with the kit. OEM timing belts have two marks (one for each cam pulley) and a dotted line that you align with a notch on the back of the drive pulley. This "ITM" belt had four marks and none of them lined up with anything - also the marks were on the "gum" side of the belt instead of the edge of the "tooth" like and OEM belt. I selected one of the marks as a reference, placing some blue painters tape next to it to indicate where the tooth was and counted to the next mark (53 teeth for reference) - there I placed a mark with a sharpie and a piece of tape with arrows:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt23.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right Camp Pulley Mark</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I then counted to the next line on the original (71 teeth if any one's interested) and placed repeated what I did for the prior. Just for piece of mind I counted to the dotted line and they were the same from both both belts, so I knew the belt was the proper length. I then went back to Bart's directions:<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt24.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Right Cam Pulley with everything lined up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt25.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left Cam Pulley with everything lined up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt26.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drive Shaft Pulley Lined up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
So here it is with the belt completed and the tensioner released. I spun it a couple of times to make sure the marks and pulleys lined up (you lose the marks on the belt) and everything looked kosher.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt27.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
There were a couple of parts that were a bit rusty that I first cleaned off with mineral spirits and then shot with Rustoleum:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt28.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repainted Skid Plate</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt29.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drive Pulley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finally I put everything back together:<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt31.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt32.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
And added the new hoses, reconnected everything and filled the radiator:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt33.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's a video I shot of the VX when I first tried the ignition with the new bits...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/Dd97r3v5lyE?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />
<br />
What you don't see in the video - after another minute the Check Engine light came on - doh! Got out my reader and it was showing a P0104 code - something about a lack of air pressure on the MAS - got out and checked the connection and of course I had forgotten to attach. Did so, cleared the code and the VX was ready to go.<br />
<br />
Finally reassembly took about another hour - I took time to clean everything off really well, especially the radiator and areas behind the cladding. I waited until the next day for the test drive since I wanted to top-up the tranny. I ended up losing a lot more ATF that I expected - needed more than a quart to get it topped up.<br />
<br />
Here's a couple of photos of the actual tools I ended up using:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt34.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Used the impact wrench to remove the drive pulley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/TimingBelt35.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
In all the entire experience wasn't bad, especially since I took my time. I think this will be the last time I do any major repair like this myself - my back was really sore after each day from bending over the fenders and front - guess I'm getting too old for this kind of thing. The other thing - some of the torque settings seem really lighter than they need to be - the water pump for instance. I wanted to over-tighten the bolts as they just didn't seem to be very tight - if anything fails it'll probably be due to my going an extra half-turn...<br />
<br />
For reference, the seller of the kit I purchased on eBay:<br />
<br />
domesticgaskets<br />
<a href="mailto:domesticgaskets@hotmail.com">domesticgaskets@hotmail.com</a><br />
Item Title: 99-01 3.5L Isuzu Vehicross Timing Belt Seals Water Pump<br />
I purchased on 5/22/2009 (yeah I know it's been a while)<br />
<br />
The part that was incorrect:<br />
Roller Tensioning Bearing<br />
Box is marked: GMB Tensioner & Idler Bearings<br />
Made in Korea <br />
079-25010-630<br />
Belt Tensioner 8-97116-002-0!<br />
330322A<br />
440-9110<br />
MG907220<br />
<br />
I'm not sure if the seller put the wrong component in the box or if the kit was just mis-configured but thought I'd share the numbers in case the kit is still wrong. Here's a link to a current auction for the equivalent on eBay by the same seller:<br />
<a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Isuzu-Honda-Acura-3-2-3-5L-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-6VE1-/300499248123">http://www.ebay.com/itm/Isuzu-Honda-Acura-3-2-3-5L-Timing-Belt-Water-Pump-6VE1-/300499248123</a><br />
<br />
It's now Sunday so I've run the VX several times without any issues. I'll report if there are any failures, etc.<br />
<br />
-- Best, JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-34236033034702428282012-03-28T04:22:00.000-07:002012-03-28T04:22:13.363-07:00Replacing the VX Blower Motor for AC/HeatSo sometime last year I started to have this intermittent problem - from time-to-time when I'd start the VX and the blower fan for the AC wouldn't cut on. I could feel cold air coming from the ducts when venting to the outside, but when on recirculating I couldn't feel anything at all. I did some checking around and found that the most likely culprit was the blower fan itself. The two other possibilities were the Resistor for the system (when this is bad the air comes out full-force and you can't dial it back) and the Climate Control panel itself. I started calling around for parts figuring I could pick up the blower motor and resistor and work backwards. Unbelievable how much they are from Isuzu. I managed to find an aftermarket blower motor on Amazon for $47 shipped and started with that. It came in the mail last week and I went about on Saturday replacing the motor.<br />
<br />
First thing you need to do is remove the glove box. If you haven't done this yet, open the door and squeeze the compartment together near the pins that hold to the top to the sides. This allows the door to swing free downward. Next there are four 10mm bolts that hold a bracket at the bottom to the dash frame (the hinge side of the glove box mounts to this bracket).<br />
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<a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-01.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The motor hangs from the bottom of a plenum on the right side - there are four screws you need to remove which allows it to come free. Careful with this as there's a basket fan attached to the top which you'll need to reused. The screws in back in my VX were a bit corroded so I cleaned them up before replacing.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-02.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Blower Motor Installed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The new fan comes in a generic "Made in China" white box - PM3914. It's shaped a bit different from the stock blower motor - basically a small DC motor mounted to a metal plate instead of the formed plastic of the original. Also the heat vent in the new is a thick flexible tube instead of part of the molded housing of the original.<br />
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<a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-01.5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-01.5.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-03.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The looks don't matter much here as the entire unit is behind the dash and difficult to see unless you stick your head way up under there.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-04.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />
The old housing "squirrel cage" or basket fan was fairly dirty - be very careful removing the retaining clip on the shaft. The instructions suggested cutting it off which I did. There was a bit of rust on the shaft so I smoothed it out first with some fine sandpaper. When pulling up the basket pry-up from the bottom - don't risk busting the fins on the sides.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-05.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The new unit comes with new clip for the shaft (it's in a small zip-lock with the instructions). Before replacing the basket clean it off well. I used throttle body cleaner (plastic safe) then scrubbed down with soapy water, drying with a blow dryer before putting it on the new fan.<br />
<br />
Once the basket it on you can fit it up into the housing. The rubber tube fits to an opening where the molded plastic used to fit. Dry-fit first - you'll find that there's a fairly substantial gap between the metal plate of the new blower motor and the existing housing. Look in the box and you'll see three thing back-adhesive weather strips - these are garbage. I used adhesive backed felt instead (happened to have a few sheets of it). You'll want something that will compress down when you put the screws back in.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-06.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After-market blower motor installed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The new fan doesn't come with a connector that will fit the existing wiring harness, however the spade bits do work. Fit the black from the motor to the blue wire with black stripe from the harness, and the blue from the motor to the blue wire with white stripe from the harness. Start your ignition and try out the system before putting everything back together. Once you're satisfied, you can either rig something to hold the motor to the harness; direct connect the wires with solder and shrink tube; or simply tape things up with electrical tape (I did the latter - not much chance of bumping the connector to make the tape come loose).<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/VX_BlowerMotor-07.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Put the glove box back in and you're done. The whole job takes about 30 minutes. You'll need a Phillips bit screwdriver and a 10 mm socket with extension. Some electrical tape and something to use as a compressible gasket (I used felt). The results were much better than I expected with a super-strong flow of air. I hadn't realized how weak the system had become with the old, failing motor.<br />
<br />
-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-47561869305272454062011-01-11T07:11:00.000-08:002011-01-11T07:11:46.234-08:00Restoring the Center Console Arm Rest<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-01.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From my Proton</td></tr>
</tbody></table>My center console arm rest started cracking a few years ago, right where my right arm tends to lay across the "pleather" - seems this is a common problem and probably has to do with the constant abrasive action of the arm, along with the oils, etc associated with skin contact on the plastic. I've always taken very good care of the interior so these cracks were rather distressing to me - it also greatly diminished my truck in my eyes, defending a lack of interior detailing (basically with the arm rest looking so bad I wouldn't take the care in detailing the interior that I used to take). So the fix for me was to get it recovered.<br />
<br />
On the VX forum, a couple of people suggested taking it to an automotive upholsterer and one enterprising VX owner went so far as to offer a re-cover with a textured "pleather" material that resembled carbon-fiber (thinking that this would look better with the other faux carbon fiber parts in the interior) - that offer was at $80 plus postage. I decided to ask around to see if I could find someone local, plus I would like to replace it in leather and not the usual vinyl. To me leather just feels better and lasts longer.<br />
<br />
First step was deciding whether I wanted to remove mine or to find another as I didn't know what route to take (drop-off or ship) and didn't want the stuff in there exposed. Luckily, a VX forum member offered up some parts and the arm rest was mine. Once I had it in hand I started calling around and visiting local shops. Most of the estimates I got were right around $75 - on a lark, while driving on a nearby road I stopped and went into "Tony's Auto Upholstery and Trim" on Beaver Ruin Road. I showed the proprietor the arm rest and he said "$30" so "...Is that for leather?" and his reply was "$45 in leather" - I made sure they would match the stitching and left it - they said it would be ready the next day. Next day I got a call and this is the result:<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-02.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Newly Covered Arm Rest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I think they did a very good job. More photos and comparisons:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-03.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old on left, new on right</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-04.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Comparison of the stitching</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-05.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Can you smell the leather?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-06.jpg" width="240" /></a></div><br />
Note the cracks in the underlying plastic - I had noticed that the tension on the plastic was weakening and have found pieces of plastic under the seat. Step two of the project is to either replace the plastic or reinforce it in some way - I'm thinking aluminum plate shaped to the size of the center console. This would attach using the same holes for the latch and hinge. My thinking is that it would raise the arm rest about an eighth of an inch and provide support for everything above. Thoughts?<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-07.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the cracked corners?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Here's a detail shot of what's under the plastic:<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/blog/VXarmrest-08.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I think adding a plate would work</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-15772662467457085102010-12-11T03:56:00.000-08:002010-12-11T03:56:41.685-08:00LED Light Mods<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/LEDlights.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" n4="true" src="http://www.johneatonstudio.com/blog/LEDlights.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<br />
I haven't posted in a while - I guess I haven't done much to the VX lately. I did buy these LEDs from a fellow VXer - they are small clusters to replace the side-marker lights and a light for the interior "tap" light. These were all direct replacements so no additional resister was necessary. <br />
<br />
I'm very happy with the side-marker lights - much brighter but a bit more direct than factory, plus the power requirement is negligible. I'm not so happy with the interior light - the blue color doesn't phase me, but the output really isn't where it should be. You can see but it's probably around 1/10th the lumens of the incandescent.<br />
<br />
-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-21606537809901775682009-08-26T07:35:00.001-07:002010-11-30T03:11:24.414-08:00MecaTech CV Joint Boot Repair<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair01.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair01.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
So since I've been back from Florida I've been assembling the supplies to fix several issues:<br />
<br />
Ordered Heat Shield and new Tranny bolts from Merlin at St Charles Isuzu.<br />
Purchased a Tranny Filter kit for the GM transmission at a local Isuzu dealer (kit comes with both tranny gaskets and filter - they threw in two copper washers for the plugs).<br />
Ordered the boot rebuild kit from Independent4x4<br />
<br />
I also had a couple of maintenance tasks and wanted to address the poor design on the cup-holder Joe installed for me in place of the 6-Disc changer (also installed a new head-unit that I bought at a garage sale - Pioneer that has a USB input and controls an iPod.<br />
<br />
The Heat Shield ended up being back-ordered so I'm saving that task plus the change of filter until that part comes in. I did want to drop the diff fluids and replace with Mobil 1 full synth which I've done recently - more on that later.<br />
<br />
I received the package from Independent4x4 almost immediately, and since that repair seemed to be the most risky if left undone, tackled that on the weekend of 8/1. I finished the passenger side and then had an issue removing the lower control arm bolts on the driver's side so that waited a couple of days. There are some great write-ups on the general technique so I'll just hit some highlights.<br />
<br />
If you haven't seen what a torn boot looks like, here's an image - I'm spreading the tear so you can see the shaft inside - the tear goes all the way around both outer boots.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair02.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair02.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
It's easier to jack up the whole front of the truck and support with Jack Stands (make sure they're rated for at least the 4000 lb weight of the truck) and pull both wheels off at the same time. Note the jack under the lower control arm on the passenger side - you need to relieve the spring pressure to get the bolts out (next thing you do).<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair03.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair03.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
The red arrow shows the bolts (there are four) that you remove.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair04.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair04.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
Now comes the fun part and where the Mecatech boot kit is very handy. Since the inner boot wasn't torn there's a very good chance that that joint is fine and that you can just cut if off - remove the band closest to the differential and slide back to expose the greasy joint - there's a retaining wire you pop-out with a flat blade screwdriver or pick. This allows the whole joint to be pulled away and out - swing it to the back side and remove the inner band - you can just cut the boot off at this point - if you're worried about crud getting into the good joint wrap it plastic until it's time to reassemble.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair05.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair05.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
Next remove the bands from the outer boot and cut away the boot. Here you cans see the bad boot cut from the joint. Clean off everything - I used newspapers to get the bulk of the grease off and save my rags (stingy I guess but it just seemed easier to grab more paper that could be tossed in the trash). Spray off everything with brake cleaner until it's all squeaky clean and examine for any damage - mine were fine.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair06.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair06.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
Next comes the cool part - the Mecatech kit comes with these large cones - you cover with some blue KY-like lube (included) and slide the boot on inside-out.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair07.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair07.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
You then fit the cone and boot over the inner joint and slide off onto the shaft - this allows you to bypass the inner joint so it doesn't have to be dissembled.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair08.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair08.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
Do the same with the inner boot, only this time it's on the cone right-side out.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair09.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair09.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
Lube up the joints with the supplied grease, fit the ends and replace the bands using the handy, included banding tool. Note that you have to "burp" the end so there isn't any deformity in the boot.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair10.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.modusmodern.com/blog/BootRepair10.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />
<br />
Do the other side and you're done - total time for the first joint was about 3-4 hours taking many breaks. I did side two about 4 days later and it took a little over an hour (knew what I was doing at that point).<br />
<br />
Before putting the tires back on I have the backs of the wheels a good degreasing and clean-off - all the slung grease was stuck on like cement. I also wiped down all the suspension components so they didn't have all that gunk on there.<br />
<br />
-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-7376964930106674482009-07-28T20:40:00.000-07:002009-08-26T07:34:26.692-07:00Having exceeded 120k Miles...Here's a quick update - I passed 120k miles recently so I'm officially off the Isuzu drivetrain warranty. I was headed down to Winter Haven FL to visit Isuzu enthusiast and VX owners Joe and Kathy Black - did a quick oil/filter change and replaced the PCV. The first odd thing I noticed was that there was a bit over 5 qts that drained from my VX - about 5.5 qts. I try to keep it topped up as it tends to use about 1 qt every 5k miles. This surprised me - when I went to refill the 5 qt bottle I got a bit of run-over. I also had to fill a bit extra to top up - about 5.25 qts. No clue what that means - I always do changes in the same spot in my carport. The VX drove exceptionally well and I got better than usual gas mileage which I attributed to the new PCV.<br /><br />I was in Winter Haven about a day having driven 500 miles or so. Joe helped me to install a radio I picked up from a friend and installed a cup-holder from the bottom DIN - doesn't work worth a crap as cans don't clear the dash. Got that one a while ago on eBay. Just before leaving I checked the oil and found it needed almost a quart. Joe diagnosed that I probably got a bad PCV - so I replaced it once I got back to Atlanta (down another 1/2 qt!). I did some searching and have decided to go to a canister collection system from the PCV to the intake - ordered a unit on eBay and it's on its way.<br /><br />Joe helped me do some maintenance on my VX when he noticed something disturbing - both bolts were missing from my tranny mount - this is the mount that holds the tranny to the cross-member (also missing was the small heat shield that blocked heat coming from a CAT on the drivers side. A thin, fine metal powder was produced from the rubbing of steel and aluminum - looked like black graphite. This was when he noticed the leak coming from the from of the tranny pan (it may be the main seal - I'm investigating - bought a dye kit today). Looking towards the front, both outer CV boots were split all the way around. To add insult to injury, my recently replaced HP Power Steering line seems to be leaking again.<br /><br />Here you can see the missing bolt:<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0p1kDeKn3RIxxjLAmm_nGFc5V1fB-t2mwS23CX3NJTGUvF8oRgDNMydBQ4MCWJh4CNWOHobzWGhGRkvLKJ_VC_1rLVXG7itsJDIYpHVG2Yy39jZTZl4t1xogw5Ou1fFYSerbRzwhqJJU/s1600-h/TrannyMount.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0p1kDeKn3RIxxjLAmm_nGFc5V1fB-t2mwS23CX3NJTGUvF8oRgDNMydBQ4MCWJh4CNWOHobzWGhGRkvLKJ_VC_1rLVXG7itsJDIYpHVG2Yy39jZTZl4t1xogw5Ou1fFYSerbRzwhqJJU/s320/TrannyMount.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5374280434642461362" /></a><br />I talked this over with my bro-in-law and he said the swaying tranny may have caused both the leaks and the torn boots due to all the movement. I've ordered a boot replacement kit (doing all 4) from Independent 4x4. I'm ordering parts to drop the tranny pan and change the filter from Merlin at St Charles Isuzu tomorrow, along with anything else I can think of to offset a disaster. Wish me luck! More with pictures coming soon.<br /><br />-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-59111588108938732482009-06-24T04:42:00.000-07:002009-07-28T20:56:59.483-07:00New Front Emblem<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/blog/VXemblem.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px;" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/blog/VXemblem.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />Not much to add regarding the VX - I did lose the "V" from the custom, titanium VX emblem from the front - came out from work and noticed it was gone. I cleaned it up a bit and ordered a set of red CF emblems and thought I would first try it out with the "X" titanium one. As the VehiCROSS emblem is a mix of red and silver it sort of works and gives it a unique look. What do you think? Image was taken with my iphone on an overcast day (you can see the rain drops on the bumper cover).<br /><br />I also decided to remove the Supercharger as I was getting some terrible drive bearing rattle. I'm looking for someone to rebuild and port the intake - more on that as I have time to geterdone! As for now she's driving with my old HotShot intake and cone filter.<br /><br />-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-28677980202036101092008-03-12T13:32:00.000-07:002008-03-12T13:33:56.367-07:00Posted new Scans of VX related articles on my homage siteI had some time today to post some scans from a few new publications I got last year. Included are three issues of Four Wheeler (one shows the VX as runner up for SUV of the year). Look for the "New" banners in yellow to view.<br /><br />Click the thumbnail for pages of full-size scans.<br /><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/publications.asp">http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/publications.asp</a><br /><br />-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-37294077023019059012008-01-03T06:40:00.000-08:002008-01-03T06:48:57.856-08:00Some Snaps I took in December 2007I haven't shown any recent images of the CF hood insert or new "Supercharger" emblems so here they are:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01531.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01531.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01530.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01530.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01528.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01528.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01529.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSC01529.jpg" border="0" /></a><br />-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-35118017330146142822007-11-28T19:36:00.000-08:002007-11-28T19:39:55.676-08:00New 2008 Vehicross.info calendar available<a href="http://images.cafepress.com/product/193501693v2_240x240_Front.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://images.cafepress.com/product/193501693v2_240x240_Front.jpg" border="0" /></a> If you're into the VX like I am, you'd be thrilled to get this calendar:<br /><div></div><br /><div><a href="http://www.cafepress.com/cp/prod.aspx?p=vxinfo_gear.193501693">http://www.cafepress.com/cp/prod.aspx?p=vxinfo_gear.193501693</a></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>All photos were taken and contributed by vehicross.info members.</div><br /><div></div><br /><div>-- Best, John</div>John Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-22161205044524478612007-10-22T02:53:00.000-07:002007-10-22T02:57:31.973-07:00Supercharger Cold Air Intake (CAI)<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake1.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake1.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>I've finally got the Intake on my recently supercharged VX worked out and it's time to show some images. I met with Joe Black and friend Doug who were visiting from Florida (they picked up the Ebony that's being transformed into a Rally dedicated VX) up at John Schellenberg's place. After situating mods/fixes to the trailer, helping to load the VX and picking up a motor at a local shop (John's project), we got to work on the intake. The project involved removing the temporary setup (using parts from the Alpine SC kit and a K&N cone that I already had) and installing a setup that worked with the Green shielded filter that Tone sells. What is interesting about this filter is that there's an inlet flange that allows for tubing to be extended outside the engine compartment - see the bottom photo and you'll see how it was done. I used the rubber flange from the cone-filter to mate up to the fender hole - nearly a perfect fit for a 90 degree elbow coupled onto the front of the filter shield. The rest is pretty much a straight shot to the MAF, short 3 inch diameter tube and to the TB using couplings. A hole had to be drilled for the sensor and a short breather tube/filter attached to the valve cover (Note the small Green filter - the elbow came from a SS TB tube that John had laying around - probably Nissan). </div><br /><div></div><div>In all a very clean install. I still need to swap out all the mismatched couplers and will probably upgrade the clamps - plus I need something better to support the weight of the thing - will probably fab up a bracket like I did for the former setup. I also need to cover the extended sensor wiring with loom. The quality and amount of air is noticeably different plus the engine temps, which were slight hot (right of center) are now back to slightly cold (left of center). Feeling the tubes before and after the intake there's a HUGE difference in temps, so I'm very happy.</div><br /><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake2.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake2.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake4.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake4.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake3.jpg"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_Mods/SCIntake3.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div>I'll update with additional images as I finally get the couplers and bracket completed.</div><div></div><br /><div>-- John </div>John Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-11303292355575303462007-09-10T09:36:00.001-07:002007-10-22T02:50:31.137-07:00Supercharged for a MonthSupercharger is running fine but still have some work to do, mainly with the intake (it's making a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">squinchy</span></span> sound when throttle is applied, plus I got a new Green filter with shield <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">to</span> mount up). The SC is an Eaton m62 on an Alpine kit. The only other issue is a gravelly sound when at negative vacuum (like coming to a stop) - might be the bearing in the nose - I got one of the old kits from back when it came supplied with a cast nose for the pulley - newer kits came with a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">CNC</span></span> billet nose - I'm probably going to replace it. After I get the intake worked out it's going to get <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">dynoed</span></span> - and eventually the 4lb pulley (supplied with the kit) will get replaced with a 5 lb one - should improve throttle response even more with the extra boost.<br /><br />I also recently had some issues (unrelated to the SC install) with the speed sensors on the TOD unit. On 8/26 I was travelling up to Athens GA pulling an unloaded trailer when the TOD warning light starting flashing. I then noticed that the front was making noises during turns. I suspected that the front drive was disabled and it was causing load on the CV joints and that's the sound I kept hearing. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">VX</span> otherwise seemed to be unaffected, only noisy in the front, flashing TOD warning light and crappy handling - which would make sense since the front wasn't powered.<br /><br />When I stopped and turn off the ignition, the flashing light went away, only to return when the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">VX</span> was back up to speed. I looked in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">VX</span> Shop Manuals but they rely on pulling a code through the Isuzu <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">proprietary</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">OBD</span>-II <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Scangauge</span> which I don't have - my generic scanner didn't show any codes. I went ahead and drained/refilled the TOD case and made sure there was gear-oil in the front differential (recently changed that). I didn't see any obvious damage to boots, <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">ect</span> in the front end and no smoking or grinding (other than when making tight turns, which I would expect with the FWD off).<br /><br /><p>So I thought the possibilities were as follows: </p><ol><li>Problem with the TOD unit - I felt around to make sure the connectors were engaged and the speed sensors and TOD links all looked good - I crawled under her and tugged on these to make sure the connection was good.</li><li>Problem with the TOD ECU - since the TOD lights seem to be working correctly, it would have to be a very specific hardware issue within it's circuitry to have gone bad - not very likely.</li><li>Issue with some front <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">driveline</span> component - could have been something <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">fubar</span> in the front-end that's not obvious and it's causing the front <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">driveline</span> to pass back some error condition - I'm thinking that this could be very probable and would be the worse case scenario.</li><li>The other possibility that Joe Black pointed out while on the phone is that the ECU could be storing some error condition that isn't clearing - I did a full battery disconnect to see if that is so and if it might clear it up (this could be linked to the extra drag from the trailer - you're really not supposed to pull something at 85 MPH I guess, and coming to a stop might have put some stress on the TOD - just a possibility). Unfortunately the flashing light returned.</li></ol><p>After exhausting the possibilities, time to take it to the dealer. The only Isuzu service center I know about is in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">BFE</span> from my house and it would be a bear to get to in traffic tomorrow (that's <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Pugmire</span> in Marietta for you <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">Jawjan's</span>). After leaving it there for a day they called me to say the TOD speed sensors were shot - they want $1100 to replace both speed sensors (parts are over to $300 each plus 4 hours labor). Sounded like a load of BS to me - lot to pay for labor that, once I reviewed the cd manual, looked easy (1 bolt on each sensor) - so far I was only out the $95 for the diagnostic. </p><p>Since no one stocks the sensors and I really shouldn't be driving the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16">VX</span> while it's mucked up, it was better logistically to buy and replace them both. $612 for the pair from Merlin and they were supposed to be at my house on Friday. In the meanwhile I rented a little <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17">econobox</span> to drive around from Enterprise for $235 for the week (figuring I'll be saving on at least 2 fill-ups it's technically only costing me about a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_18">hunert</span> bucks to drive around). I had to have the car as I was heading up to TN to visit the family that weekend (Labor Day). Even with the rental it cost me less than the dealer's $361 each for the sensors plus labor (and I would need the rental anyway).</p><p>FYI the sensors are mounted above and below the TOD unit and it didn't look like there's much in the way to replacing them. I was just <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_19">hoping</span> that that's the only thing wrong and it wasn't symptomatic of another problem. That was my fatal error - thinking it would be easy.</p><p>Peeled off the whole front of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_20">VX</span> to look for shorts in the harness - there weren't any so got busy looking at the wiring to the sensors - got the sensors during the week (supposed to be here 2 Fridays ago but they messed up and sent them to my old work address). Dismantling the existing harness was quite a PITA - there are plastic tabs that a bolt runs through into the TOD unit - each sensor has a round plug with a blue o-ring that's quite difficult to remove - have to gently pry all around until it loosens - I ended up breaking one tab from my existing bottom sensor (top came out first with no issue). You also need to disengage a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_21">tranny</span> sensor that's also part of the harness. Once the harness is loosened up, you have to disengage the main connector on top of the unit - this was quite difficult as you can hardly thread one arm up there to grab it and the connector has to be mashed down for it to release - quite a bit of frustration there. </p><p>The connector can then be slid down the passenger side of the TOD by loosening the bolt holding the gas lines to the top of the case (you can then lift the lines and shimmy the connector under them). Once apart, all plastic wire casing has to be removed and the two sensors have to be unpinned from the connector (note that there are two wires who's ends are <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_22">buried</span> in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_23">tranny</span> that are still attached to the connector, so you're basically laying under the truck the whole time). I unpinned by removing the back and sliding a small screwdriver into the pin slots while wiggling the wire from the back.</p><p>The two new sensors are attached in a reverse of the above - lubing the o-ring with silicon helps but it's still a PITA getting them back in. Pinning into the connector isn't as bad as <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_24">depinning</span>. Once it's back together, electrical tape pulls the casing back on, making sure to reinstall the two wires you had to pull out for slack (the ones mentioned above that terminate in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_25">tranny</span>). Getting the main connector back together wasn't easy. Once you get the "click" you can bolt the connector back to the top of the case, bolt the gas lines back, reconnect the sensors and the 3rd sensor on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_26">tranny</span> (this one <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_27">gets</span> a zip tie too to help hold the wire out of the way). When it was back together I reconnected the battery (left out that it needs to be disabled while you work on this, as with any electrical system), got in and started her up. Started on the first try.</p><p>Drove her down the road and noticed a new, high pitched whine - this lasted until I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_28">go </span>back to the house and backed in. Next <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_29">startup</span> and the whine wasn't there - all this so far was about 5 hours dismantling last weekend and about 4 hours putting her back together on Saturday. This morning I got in her and once again noticed the whine, but much fainter - driving a few miles the whine went away completely - I'm not sure what it was and hope it's not something that will come back to haunt me later.</p><p>Last week, when I realized the parts <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_30">wouldn't</span> make it I had an offer from Joe Black to use the sensors off his ebony up at John <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_31">Schellenberg's</span> - he was nice enough to remove the piece of harness from Joe's and drop it off last Sunday morning (took him an hour to do this - dunno why it took me 5 to do the same thing! - difference in skill level I guess). After spending so much time fumbling with removing mine I didn't have it in me to finish (it was getting dark) so I <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_32">figured</span> I would just wait for the parts. Now I still have to put Joe's back in his ebony, but that can wait until next weekend.</p><p>Good news is that the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_33">flashing</span> TOD light has gone away and she's driving great - guess that's what is most important. Note that I used the CD manual as a reference and it looked easy from that perspective - but this was anything but easy to do. If I had known it would be this hard I would have just paid the money and had the dealer's service group do it. I'll think twice next time.</p><p>-- John</p>John Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-29165858267205283382007-08-06T07:29:00.000-07:002007-10-22T02:47:40.051-07:00#580 is now SUPERCHARGED!<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">OK</span> - it's official - my proton is now Supercharged!<br /><br />I was part of the original 10 who bought the Alpine kit from Tone Monday off the old <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">ClubVMag</span></span> forum - it's been sitting in the box in my basement until recently. I just never had the time for the install. I finally had some time this weekend and took the opportunity to head up to John <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">Schellenberg's</span></span> place on Saturday to begin the install - the timing was good for us both since school doesn't start for him until today. It took all day <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Saturday</span> and most of Sunday to get everything right.<br /><br />Some notes and suggestions on the install:<br /><br /><ol><li><strong>Prior Engine Bay Cleaning</strong> - I suggest to anyone thinking of installing the SC to clean the engine bay well - There was a lot of sand and debris that we had to remove from surfaces - especially the cylinder heads, once the old Intake Manifold was removed. We wiped out the gunk in the ports using rags soaked in brake cleaner, the vacuumed out the debris using a tiny vacuum attachment bought at <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Lowes</span></span>. Then did more wiping until it was spotless. It's amazing how dirty the original manifold was - <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">literally</span> caked in greasy gunk.</li><li><strong>Photos and Labeling</strong> - take photos of everything before you take a piece off the motor - then label every connector and hose before moving aside. We missed a couple and spent a lot of head-scratching time figuring things out.</li><li><strong>Poor directions</strong> - as stated before the Alpine directions are a joke. They don't even approximate what's needed for this install. The most useful document for us was the vacuum hose diagram that came from the Supercharger 101 thread. The next SC John installs I plan to take step-by-step photos and detail everything. There were a lot of questions about how the parts fit together - also things could have been a lot smoother if the assembly order was changed a bit. </li><li><strong>Fuel Injectors and "0" Rings</strong> - Everything went together smoothly - if you use some silicon spray (apply to finger then to the "O" ring), everything pops right in - the only issue we had was that one didn't seat right and you can't tell until the system is pressurized - fixing the issue <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">required</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">dissembly</span> - and once the "O" rings get fuel on them they swell - this was a real PITA and took probably the most time out of the whole install. </li><li><strong>ECU Codes</strong> - I came prepared with a <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">OBD</span></span> II meter to clear codes - remarkably we didn't have a single engine code. I think this can be attributed to hooking up all the electronics and vacuum lines before turning over the ignition. We did have one <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">puzzling</span> problem with the Fuel Pump relay - it would rapidly click and flash the interior trouble lights - we figured out that it was the engine ground - we had it in a valve cover bolt (the valve covers must either be made of a non-conductive alloy or the coating prevents metal contact) - moving the grounds to the fuel rail (something we really didn't want to do), corrected the issue.</li><li><strong>Cruise Control Bracket and Cable</strong> - I found a cable and "bracket" in the box and forgotten than they were sent to me early on - the elongated cable would work, but the bracket sent to me was a joke - it's the same as the throttle bracket only bent in and I'm guessing designed to fit on the end of the throttle bracket supplied with the SC - if that's what's shipping now I may just design something else to as one piece for them both. As it is, the supplied throttle bracket had to be straighted quite a bit, and the angle altered to work.</li><li><strong>Extra Parts</strong> - something you never want on an assembly like this are inexplicable parts - there were several "weird" parts that <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">presumably</span> were for a Trooper install (one 2" air duct extension looks like it's supposed to be added to the bottom of the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">OEM</span></span> air filter <span class="blsp-spelling-corrected" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">canister</span> - seen from one of the Alpine photos). I'm guessing that the kit I have is basically a Trooper kit with different instructions - it also came with a square-faced throttle body adapter and other bits and pieces that weren't used. It would be good to compile a list with pictures of what is used and not - same goes for the vacuum tubing instructions - the diagram helped but some things aren't used (the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">evap</span></span> canister for instance) and it's not exactly obvious. It took a bit of research on all the SC threads on the info site to figure things out.</li></ol><p><br />Impressions? It's really amazing the amount of throttle response and torque I'm now getting - even with the AC blasting full force. Passing is a breeze and now effortless, even at speed. I'm very pleased. I decided to put the stock kit on but will eventually go with the 5 lb. pulley and machined aluminum nose - I want to get some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">dyno</span></span> numbers before doing so (I had went with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">Dave <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">Sirkin</span></span> 2 years ago and got <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">dyno</span></span> numbers of the nearly stock Proton - I want to see what the improvement of the basic kit is to nearly stock, then with the smaller pulley).</p><p>I've still got to work out the intake (doing a hybrid of the supplied piping and a cone filter) and create a cold air box - once I have those and dress up the bay a bit I'll post some pics. John's already looking at the possibility of making some real headers for it - I'm not sure if there's enough tube length, but opening up the overall size to the tail pipe should help out a lot (there's a restrictive part in there that reduces the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">exhaust </span>to about 1.5 inches in the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_16"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">OEM</span></span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_17"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">config</span></span>).</p><p><br />-- John</p>John Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-82331745213079848942007-07-16T06:50:00.000-07:002007-07-16T07:09:39.156-07:0090K and still going strongI hit 90K this past weekend and decided it was time to give a little update. The truck is running strong with very little besides maintenance to be done on it:<br /><br /><ol><li>Left-rear 1157 bulb burnt out at about 50K</li><li>Replaced the tires at 39K miles (<span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Pirelli</span> V-rated Scorpions 255 55H18)</li><li>Replaced the factory battery with a 600 A Red Top Optima (bought at Costco) - the old battery was dying - at 45K miles.</li><li>Right Window stared slipping about 60K - did the washer fix and it's been working fine.</li><li>Upgraded the rotors at about 72K (didn't need to but went with some cross-drilled) - still plenty of pad left so I'm still on them (bought new but didn't want to waste what was still good). Also went with new braided lines all around.</li><li>ABS unit went bad and was replaced with a unit pulled from a 99 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">VX</span> (total cost $100 plus install) at about 72K miles (same time as the brake lines and rotors).</li><li>The 600 A Optima I had died after 2 years (75K miles) - got a refund on it at Costco and bought a 700 A Optima red top at Sears - it's still going strong.</li><li>Replaced the tires with <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">Kumho</span> <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Ecstas</span> at about 79K (started getting wear on the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Pirellis</span> - a bit too soft and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">grippy</span> for me - the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">Pirellis</span> would track into every groove on the road - the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">Kumho's</span> are slightly harder and don't track).</li><li>Right-rear 1157 bulb burnt out at 89K (good thing they are sold in pairs!).</li><li>About to get the 90K maintenance done</li></ol><p>I change the oil about every 4-5K - useing 10w30 Mobile 1 and put in about 1 qt between oil changes. I also change the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">PCV</span> every-other oil change - I find that it improves the mileage slight. I also changed to 89 octane as I was getting some <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">pre</span>-ignition using 87. About once every 2 months or so I put in some additive to melt out the impurities. That's about it - the truck has been running flawlessly.</p><p>-- John</p>John Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-35257215031889781182007-06-06T06:18:00.001-07:002007-06-06T06:23:45.137-07:00About me and more importantly, my truck<a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_MyPics/VX3quarter_600.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px;" src="http://www.wildtoys.com/Vehicross/VX_MyPics/VX3quarter_600.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br />I figured I needed to add a little background on my VehiCROSS experience and about the truck itself. I have an homage site setup that has most of the details located at <a href="http://www.wildtoys.com/vehicross/">http://www.wildtoys.com/vehicross/</a>.<br /><br />I describe on my site how I first found the VX and what an impact it had on me. You can also use my homage site to view images of magazine article scans and gather stats on the VX along with development history and production information. <br /><br />More info to follow...<br /><br />-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2157645901669181365.post-70873257202668519442007-05-14T04:14:00.001-07:002007-07-16T07:16:53.673-07:00WelcomeWelcome to my Isuzu VehiCROSS blog. For more information about the VehiCROSS, you can access my post on Wikipedia: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicross">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vehicross</a><br /><br />-- JohnJohn Eatonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/00040215463441470962noreply@blogger.com0