Rear Door Popper Kit

Rear Door Popper Kit

2002.11.16

My particular modification brings together several bits and pieces that are now available in an $85 kit from Tone Monday. This is a must-have as it allows you to open the rear door remotely.

Door "Popper"

I put together the pieces based on a post by longtime VX owner "swordy" on the old VX forums - here's his original post (updated with part numbers) as I don't believe it's available elsewhere any longer:

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2002.04.04 Swordy's post

Since several of you have asked to see them, I'm just going to post the pics here.

Solenoid Body

This is the solenoid body and one of the mounting screws. It is mounted to an inside structural piece, so the other end of the screw is still inside the door. 

Mounting Screws

This is the second mounting screw. I drilled a hole in the black bracket so I could get to the area where I needed to drill a hole. Rather than taking the bracket off(which might have been a better idea) I drilled it. I figured that would make it trivial to replace the solenoid in the event that it ever went bad. Its been in and fine for a year so far.

Plunger and Actuator Cable

This is the plunger and actuator cable. It is made from plastic coated aircraft cable.
(AKA braided steel fishing leader.) You MUST mount the solenoid so that the plunger will pull nearly straight, or the plunger may bind in its bore and not pull correctly.

Door Lever mechanism

This is the doorlever mech, at first I used a crimp on style electrical lug and slipped it over the purple plastic retainer, but it didn't move real freely, and occasionally the pull distance was insufficient. I moved the cable up onto the arm, which gave me more throw. The solenoid still had plenty of torque.
You should use at least #12 wire for the connection from the solenoid to a relay, as well as from the relay to the bat. (I used #10), This is because the solenoid can easily draw 20 amps (though only for a second). A regular offroad fog lamp relay will suffice. You probably will want to fuse the wire in between the power source and the relay with a 20-25 amp fuse. The coil pull-on side of the relay can just be hooked to an accessory fuse in the dash. #16 wire should be plenty good, as the relays have very little amp draw. I mount all my relays in the engine compartment next to a separate little fuseblock I mounted on the firewall for powering toys. Remember though to use a momentary switch to activate the relay, because applying power to the solenoid for long periods of time can bake it internally.
If I can think of any other relevant info, I'll update this post.
Now,, wheres that dang spell check???
Have fun guys!!
Swordyyy 

[This message has been edited by Swordy (edited 04-04-2002).]

Fuzzy hole: Parts from a 97 Passport:
8-97107569-0 for the bezel (which holds three switches in a row)

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